Basque Country, Day 5 — September 9, 2023

After breakfast, we learned that Bayonne gave its name to  a musket with a blade attached that was originally used by hunters in the 1600s, but eventually became a weapon: the bayonet.
Todd led us to the cathedral. Nick and I had already been there, but it was a much richer experience having both Todd and a local guide who lives in the town. The cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage site, as is the entire town. The area was once called Aquitaine. Eleanor of Aquitaine was the mother of Richard the Lionheart.

We went back to the chocolate workshop that Nick and I  had visited the day before, Monsieur Txokola (tx sounds like ch),  but this time we had a translator. We learned of the importance of chocolate to the town’s history, and we saw the many machines that are required to make  the chocolate we love. There was chocolate for us to taste.

Then we had a tour of the Museum of Basque Culture. Each floor was dedicated to a different element of Basque history,  and the displays included rural tools, rural dwellings and their contents, clothing, dances, the sport of jai a’alai, and religion, especially the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, which we would hear more about later.

Notice the window  to the left of  the entrance to the museum.  Centuries ago, this was the location of a “Foundling Wheel.” Anyone who could not care for a newborn for whatever reason could place the baby on the wheel, rotate the wheel, and ring the bell. Someone inside  the building would then  see to it  that the baby would be cared for. This practice ended in the late 1800s. The bars were added later  to prevent anyone from getting in.

It was time for lunch. I enjoyed  a salad of lettuce topped with jambon, Roquefort cheese, nuts, and white asparagus. Nick had duck confit with potatoes. Lunch was followed by a quiet time back in our room (that is,  a nap).

After our rest, we went back to Monsieur Txokola to get more chocolate, hoping it wouldn’t melt in the heat. We then went to the gelateria that Todd had recommended. Nick ordered stracciatella gelato, which is like Cherry Garcia without the cherries, while I chose melon. Both were wonderful.

We decided to return to the museum for a few reasons. First, there was so much more of it that we hadn’t had time to see. And second, it  was air conditioned.

Our dinner entrees that night were  tuna or veal. We ordered one tuna and one veal so that we could exchange tastes.

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6 thoughts on “Basque Country, Day 5 — September 9, 2023

  1. I love reading about your trip – especially all the food! Everything sounds delicious. I hope the weather cools down a bit for you. Who would have expected it to be this hot at the end of September/beginning of October?

  2. Synchronicity! I just read in the NYTimes about stracciatella gelato being some designer’s favorite flavor and wondered what it is. Thanks for the description of cherry Garcia!

    Interesting about the origin of bayonet, Eleanor of Aquitaine (was she considered to be a Basque?), foundlings, and food!

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