Lago Maggiore and Milan, Day 6 — September 1st, 2026

I chose yogurt, scrambled eggs, and pineapple slices from the breakfast buffet. After our meal, we packed up, checked out, and put our luggage into storage until we were ready to leave. We decided to walk around the entire  island, taking time to stroll up and down the narrow cobblestoned lanes. We came upon Jose-Maria and made arrangements to meet for lunch. Agnès had been on an expedition to find just the right gifts for their five grandchildren, and she was pleased with her purchases.

For lunch Agnès enjoyed lasagna, Nick had trout, and my choice was prosciutto with melon and feta. I didn’t make note of Jose-Maria’s lunch, but  throughout the trip he ordered healthful meals.

It was time to join Michaela for a visit to Isola  Madre, an Island known for its botanical garden. I was impressed by her knowledge of the many kinds of trees and shrubs. There is a 16th century palazzo on the island that contains historic rooms decorated with period furniture, family portraits, porcelain and four poster beds. The grand reception room features trompe l’oeil wall paintings. There is also a unique collection of 17th, 18th and 19th century marionettes  and antique French and German dolls.

Agnès had wanted to visit a town called Cannero Riviera, which was about 40 minutes away  and had a population of less than 1,000 people.  Jose-Maria had rented a car, and  we got there in comfort. When we arrived, Jose-Maria and Agnès refreshed themselves by swimming in the hotel’s pool, and Nick joined them. Then we needed to make a dinner reservation. We chose a restaurant that offered “traditional” Italian food.

I have a genealogy buddy, Umberto,  with whom I have been corresponding for several years. He  lives in Milan, and is related to my mother’s  brother Tommy’s wife, Adele.  It had been difficult to contact him  from home, but we hoped it would be easier in Italy. We  composed a message to him trying to arrange a meeting in Milan, and we sent it out by email and by text, hoping one of those methods would be successful.

Dinnertime approached. We walked along the coast passing many restaurants until we reached the one at which we had a reservation. The appetizer we shared consisted of thin slices of veal with whipped tuna, capers and anchovies. We were skeptical about this being “traditional”  Italian food. For dinner Nick enjoyed ravioli puttanesca, Agnès had eggplant with other vegetables, I had spaghetti frutta di mare, which I found to be  untraditionally  spicy. We found it interesting that here were several children having dinner with their parents,  because school had already started, and the  hour was late.

Back at our hotel, we again enjoyed the quiet. I fell asleep instantly.

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